El Capitan-A view from the 5th pitch of East Buttress of Middle Cathedral. 

April 5, 2008-My first attempt at climbing The Nose (photo on 2nd pitch)

April 5, 2008-Looking for gear placement and preparing to pendulum to a

second crack higher up.

April 5, 2008-Brian as he is jumarring on the first pitch of The Nose route.

June 6, 2009 - My first attempt to climb the Nose last year did not materialize as I was expecting. My climbing partners for that attempt did not work out. In any case, I am trying again this year to climb the Nose. We have good weather this coming week and we hope to be able to get on the wall on Monday. 

Mike Wheat jugging up to Sickle Ledge.

Mike Wheat on pitch 6 of the Nose.

June 10, 2009 - The Nose is not going to happen this summer due to several factors. After fixing ropes up to Sickle Ledge and haul, it became more clear that the route will require more time than I first anticipated. The main factor is the weather. It has been raining on and off and making it difficult to climb. Mike is showing his inexperience with being on a big wall and that is definitely a concern. If we can get a long window of good weather, maybe we will give it a push.

June 25, 2009 - The weather is giving us a break this last week of June. It's hotter, but at least there will not be any rain in the forecast. I am making one more attempt before temperature gets too hot to climb El Cap. 

Pitch 1 of the Nose on June 27, 2009. Fixing rope to Sickle Ledge.

Looking down from pitch 1 and thinking only 31 more pitches to go.

Mandatory free climbing on pitch 1.

Hauling up to Sickle Ledge.

Early morning start as Andy begins jumarring up to Sickle Ledge. 

Andy on pitch 7 getting ready to transition over to Dolt Hole and then Stove Leg.

Andy starting off on pitch 7.

A view from Sickle Ledge in the morning.

Me at top of pitch 6 of the Nose route.

Andy getting ready to pendulum to Dolt Hole and Stove Leg.

Andy completing the pendulum.

Andy swinging over to the Stove Leg.

Andy on anchor at the bottom of the Stove Leg.

Looking up at the Stove Leg.

Me climbing the Stove Leg.

#1, #2, #3, #4 Camalots all the way up. Hardest 5.8-5.9 I have ever climbed.

El Cap, Nose route, Stove Leg. 

Leading on Slove Leg.

Thanh at anchor on Stove Leg.

Andy leading next pitch on Stove Leg (pitch 9).

Thanh leading pitch 10 on the Nose.

Pitch 10 of the Nose on El Capitan.

Getting to Dolt Tower.

Climbing ranger (Grasshopper) climbing to El Cap Tower (Pitch 12).

Eric (Grasshopper) freeing pitch 12 and making it look easy!

Andy leading pitch 12 to El Cap Tower.

Looking up at El Cap Tower and Texas Flake above.

Arriving at El Cap Tower on the first day.

Andy getting ready to bed down for the day on El Cap.

An early morning wake up call on El Cap. Climbing rangers are stirring up.

Looking out from El Cap Tower at the Valley below.

Climbing rangers, Eric (Grasshopper) Bissell and Alex (Shakespeare) Baker waking up on El Cap Tower.

Andy carefully pouring our rations of water since we were two gallons short.

Breakfast on El Cap Tower.

Texas Flake...looking up at the Boot and discussing how to make the King Swing.

Andy and me standing on top of the Texas Flake on the Nose. 

Jumarring to the top of the Boot on the Nose.

My attempt at the King Swing.

Andy Dorais making the King Swing.

Andy completing the King Swing.

Chris Gonzales, above Camp 4 on the Nose getting ready to climb the Great Roof.

Chris on the Great Roof.

My friend, Chris Gonzales, climbing the Great Roof.

Chris Gonzales climbing the Pancake Flake.

Me leading the Glowering pitch on the Nose.

Me (Thanh) cleaning the Alcove pitch before the final bolt ladder.

After three days on the wall of El Capitan, we topped out on June 30, 2009 with only two gulps of water remaining. The climbing rangers who passed us had some extra water left and gave us about half a gallon of water enough for us to rehydrate to hike off to the nearest stream on our way down.

Climbers on route throw empty bottles and urine filled bottles along with other wastes they don't want to carry out. They also openly defecate the rock as can be seen here of soiled toilet pappers and feces.

Camp 6 on El Cap, Nose route is filled with human wastes deposited by inconsiderate climbers. It is a shame that climbers who cherish the sport and the history of the Nose should treat the monolith in such a poor, disrespectful manner. The climbing rangers tried to clean up as much as they can during the climb, but were unable to remove the hazardous human wastes of feces and bottled urine.